This is a 4 part series that will
explain how to remove practically everything from the interior of your Fiero.
Disassemble at your own risk! The result should resemble the bare shell of the
passenger compartment of the Fiero.
small phillips screwdriver
small flat screwdriver
medium to large phillips screwdriver
window crank handle remover (opt...manual windows)
small hex wrench set (opt...manual mirrors)
first step in disassembling the door panel is to remove the armrest. Use the
small flat blade screwdriver to pry the cap off the top and remove the three
screws holding it on. If the car has manual windows, then the window crank
handle remover should be used to pop out the pin that secures the crank handle.
The small hex wrench should be used to loosen the mirror adjustment knob (if you
donít have power mirrors) so that it can be pushed through its bracket into
the door panel. Pry off the small Fiero emblem by the door latch and the small
round cap behind the latch. Unscrew the two phillips screws that hold the latch
plate on. It will take some careful maneuvering to weave the black plastic plate
around the door handle while you remove the small lock slide lever. (Let the
assembly hang there if you have power locks) If I recall correctly, there are 7
or 8 fasteners that hold the door panel on. This is where the upholstery puller
comes in handy. By feeling around the perimeter of the door panel, you should
feel an occasional recess every foot or so. This is where you slide the
upholstery puller, and carefully pull the fastener out from the door, and try
not to let the fastener get ripped out of the panel. If you do happen to have a
few casualties, donít worry, you can always twist the fasteners back into the
panel, but it will never be as good as original. After all of them have been
pulled out, the panel needs to be pulled out from the trim metal bracket that
holds it on right next to the window. It should pull straight out. From here,
you snake the wires through the opening if you have power locks, and move on to
the next stage of disassembly.
1/4 inch drive socket wrench with shallow 13 mm socket
13 mm wrench
4 nuts holding the seat to the floorboard, 2 in the front, 2 in the rear.
Usually, they are corroded or rusted. To avoid breaking them, spray all 4 of the
nuts with WD 40 and let them soak for a while. (If you have 84 or
85 seats with speakers in the headrest, pull the seat all the way
forwards and disconnect the speaker wires that run out of the bottom of the
seat.) Pull the seat all the way forward and tilt the backrest forward. Try to
haggle the socket wrench onto the nut, if this does not work, you are stuck with
the arduous task of manually removing the nut with the open-end wrench. Once the
two back nuts are removed, push the seat all the way back and remove the front
nuts. Be careful not to get the seatbelt or the parking brake caught on the seat
as you re-enact a tetris game trying to maneuver the seat out.
Before you re-install the seats, clean up the sliding rails and nuts, and
possibly re-spray them with paint to make the job easier for next time, and just
so that it looks better.
issue: Part 2 (Shift Console, Center Vent, Stereo, Front Console, and Armrest